Actually this picture was taken during the winter after Andrew had to work during an epic storm cycle, but you get the point. |
In 2004 I wrote a letter to Alaskan Ski Guide Dean Cummings asking for
advice on how to pass the ski-less days of the summer. While I hoped he
might have a secret recipe, or just put me at ease knowing Im not the
only one suffering, he told me to fish. Ive tried fishing, but while I
love the sport Im not much of a fisherman. So then I bought a trials
bike and headed to the dirt jumps...and broke 3 ribs. I tried mountain
biking and someone stole my bike. I like waterskiing and wake-surfing,
but there arent any lakes around Bozeman, so I got into rock climbing,
but last summer fell 50ft, broke my ankle and scared the last shred of
summertime hope out of myself.
After realizing I was no good at most of the summer pass-times, or what I
might be any good at significantly lowered my life expectancy, I
started looking for more skiing. I've been backcountry skiing for almost
10 years and strung a few seasons together where Ive skied every month
of the year. This year I met Jason Bacaj at one of the Seneca Parties at
our new shop. He's a writer for the Bozeman Daily Chronicle and avid
skier, and we decided to work together on documenting the summer
doldrums of a skier and the quest to get turns every month of the year.
His quest starts like most, on the roadside chutes of the Beartooth
Highway. Jason will be checking in every month with updates on his
adventures so be sure to check our website or subscribe to the blog or
our facebook page for his regular updates!
-- Eric Newman
Indoctrination of a ski bum
It hardly snowed my first winter as a season pass holder at
Bridger Bowl. You could only ride the quad to the midpoint until January. And no
matter how many times my friends told me, hearing that the lift used to close
because there was too much snow didn’t make it any better. Still, the handful
of powder days to be had changed the way I viewed skiing. Hiking to steep
terrain, skiing thigh-deep powder and having to study lines on the lift ride to
make sure you don’t cliff out — it was a far cry from the high-speed ice
carving and tree skiing I grew up on in West Virginia.
The Beartooth Pass is even more gorgeous than you think |
The first
seven months were easy. Skin up to Bridger before the season starts then ride
through the end of the year in April. There’s still snow at Bridger and in the
other ranges that ring Bozeman but the way to start the hard leg of this
journey isn’t with a swift jaunt 16 miles north of town.
It just so
happened that the Beartooth Pass was scheduled to open up Memorial Day weekend,
which also happens to be my birthday weekend. Obviously, it was a sign from God
that the Beartooth Pass is where this adventure needed to start. And after
watching about a month of snow plowing videos
I was pretty stoked to get down there, even though my small crew bailed to
float the Smith River.
The solo
drive was a little rough after taking a few days to celebrate the fact that I
survived a quarter-century of life. But I made it to Red Lodge and found Red
Lodge Ales Brewing Company’s taproom in due time. A friendly chef told me about
some free campgrounds just outside the pass. After a couple beers I headed out
to check out the pass.
The pass switchbacks from an
elevation of about 5,500 feet at nearby Red Lodge to almost 11,000 feet on its
way to Yellowstone National Park and is as dramatic as it sounds. I went up to
check out the Gardner Headwall, just past the Wyoming line, in the couple hours
of sunlight that were left. The snow was soft and I got in a couple runs on
low-angle stuff before the light waned and I had to try and find the campgrounds.
Tempting steeps, dangerous conditions |
I admired a distant snowstorm at
the bottom of the run before starting the hike back up. Maybe 10 minutes later
as I scrambled up some rocks on the way to the top, the distant storm was on
top of me pounding snow and high winds. Thunder and lightning were crashing
around by the time I reached the top. It was whiteout conditions when I reached
my car and headed back down the pass.
The heavy low hanging clouds and rain on
Highway 212 gave the world a sharper color and introspective aura. It was a
good start to the adventure. The next one won’t include any car camping.
Love it Jason!
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